Project: Apple Turnover Revised Week 6
Last time I mentioned that I had a couple things I wanted to do before calling my painting finished so here they are. First, I wanted to bring some of the background leaves down behind the table so it would look more natural. As you can see the previous image from last week the leaves look like they are avoiding the table in a nice little semi-circle around the corner of the table, on the left, a few extra leaves and problem solved.
I also wanted to add a couple more leaves to some of the apples but only did one. By adding a leaf to the apple on the left side and overlapping the basket, I tie the apple to the basket visually as well as create a better sense of depth, the leaf pushes the basked back just a bit.
Finished project for now. I do like to live with a painting for a while just to be sure that when I can look at it with fresh eyes nothing jumps out at me but overall, right now I am satisfied with the outcome.
Because what I had to do took all of 5 minutes - if that - I did a demo on how to create your own sanded paper by using the Ground for Pastel by Golden. There may be other manufactures with their own product but I use Golden.
It is a simple procedure and takes a bit of time, but in the long run you can save money and have more versatility - in my opinion - than constantly using manufactured sanded paper.
I do want to say, that this is my opinion regarding, not just making the sanded paper but also, using sanded paper. Every artist has their preferences and it is up to you as an artist to explore your options and find out what works for you. I had used regular pastel paper for many years and was satisfied with the results but once I used the sanded paper I was hooked, mostly because I didn't like having to spray it with workable fixative all the time. Again, this is your preference.
The first thing I did, and this is something I just recently learned from attending a Pastel Society meeting, was to mount the paper to a support, in this case some foam core presentation board that I got at the local drug store (you can also find it at office supply stores and art stores, just be careful that the sheets are not near the party stuff with all the glitter or you will never get rid of it). You can use any kind of paper you want, from pastel paper to watercolor paper to mat board to whatever is handy, I was using Bristol paper because it is a heavy paper as well as having a smooth surface.
I cut the foam core down to a size that was a bit larger than my paper then I used and archival spray glue (Scotch Supper 77 but there are other spray glues that will work as well) to mount the paper to the foam core. Smooth it down well so that there is good adhesion between paper and board and to be safe, let it dry for a few minutes. I was rushed to get the demo done before people had to leave but would have let it dry for several minutes otherwise.
Next, I mixed up a combination of the Ground for Pastel and water. I usually use about a 3 to 1 ratio (3 water to 1 ground), this is an approximate measure, you want a thin slurry of the ground. This will give you a smoother surface and you can go over it a second or third time if you need more texture. Yes, you can use it right out of the jar but you will get brush strokes showing, which is okay if that is the look you are going for.
I was using a flat bristle brush that you would use in oils or acrylics but I have used softer brushes when I am doing this at home. The key is to use a big brush so it will go on quickly and smoothly. I try to first get some of the slurry on the paper then with lighter pressure on the brush, spread and smooth out the ground while it is still wet. This will help prevent lumps and missed areas as well as giving you a smooth surface. Let it dry.
When it has dried, feel the surface to be sure that you have an even coat of ground and if it feels like it has enough "tooth". If it feels like it needs more, repeat the above.
This ground will go onto almost any surface that it will stick to so feel free to experiment once you get the hang of it.
We have one more class to finish up or to look ahead to new projects. Keep painting.
Project: Apple Turnover Revised Week 5
When I started out the class, I thought I had one more session after that class to finish up the project, but as I got closer to the end of class I realized that I was basically done! Surprise! Surprise! This happens with most paintings, you get to a point where you are circling the painting with either brush or chalk and looking for a place to land, that is usually the best place to stop at least of a couple of days then look at it with fresh eyes. This will keep you from over working a painting and ruining what was making it work.
When I got it home, I found a couple places I could improve but these things are minor and won't take more than a few minutes. If you are to that point in your's of if you just feel a bit frustrated, set your painting aside for a while, you can always come back to it if you want.
I started the class by adding shadows. Shadows are always darkest closest to the object that is casting them and get lighter as they get further away so most of my color was near the bottom of the apples or basket where they touch the table and I blended the color out from there. I also lightly blended the bottoms of the apples as I was blending the shadow on the table to give a "lost and found" look to the apple. I was using a dark indigo which is a dark blue/gray.
Once I had the shadows on I went back in with light colors for the table to add more light around the shadows and the apples.
After I had gotten the shadows and the table where I wanted them, I decided to breakup that big area of negative space behind the table with some branches and leaves.
I used a teal color for the leaves and brown for the twigs, and just quickly based in the shapes of the apple leaves. You don't need to be too exacting at this point because the leaves are not the focal point of the painting they are there to make that area less obvious. This is one of the areas I need to work on in class next time, see if you can figure out why.
This is about midway through the class. I have my shadows in and more table highlights and I am starting the leaves in the background. I also used a lighter indigo to add shadows to the table from the leaves.
Next I have to start adding the highlights on the apples and final touches on the basket.
The highlights on the apples have a couple of steps. The parts of the apple that are in the light but do not have the light spot can be lightened using a light orange color. If you try to use white, you will just turn your red apple pink. On the green apples, you can use yellow.
This is for the overall color in the light areas. Look at the reference photo and look at the areas around the bright spot, that is the area I'm talking about. Follow the direction of the apple so you can keep the curves of the apple, it is easy at this point to make them look flat by using straight strokes either vertical or horizontal so be mindful of your strokes.
Once that part is done, now comes the bright spot. You can use white if you don't have a very light cream color (being a bit on the yellow or orange side will make it look warm, white is a cold color). LOOK at your photo to see where the bright spot falls on each apple, add that warm white or white to that area then lightly tap the color you just put down. This will soften and blend the color and the edges. Then use pure white to the very center of this spot you made and leave it alone, do not blend. Do this for all the apples that the sun is hitting. You will be doing very little blending at this point.
I added a few stems to some of the apples and a leaf to one in the basket. Look for places you can add detail like the tops and bottoms of the apples to suggest the direction they are facing. Finishing up a painting is personal so do as little or as much as you feel comfortable with (I can get a bit overboard).
Don't forget your basket at this point. Be sure you have highlights where you need them and that you have followed the weave of the basket, this is important so you get the twist of the handle and the texture of the weave of the basket.
I brought the leaves across the page and behind the basket. I also took a darker version of the first color - you can use the indigo or a blue if you don't have a darker color - to add some suggestion of shadows and shadowed leaves as well as some of the apple green to suggest apples on the branches.
Last, I took a light blue and hit some of the edges of the leaves with this color to help separate some of the leaf shapes from others and to highlight a few of the leaves. Don't get carried away adding detail to this area it isn't the focal point and too much busy work can draw the eye away from the apples.
This is where I stopped in class because I was looking for something more to do and couldn't find it. As I said at the beginning once I got it home I fond a couple places I think I will touch next class but basically I could call it done at this point.
You do not have to get your's done by next class we still have a couple of weeks before the semester ends so if you are still working on you project take the time you need. If you are finished, bring in something else to work on and I can help you get started.
Keep painting and I will see you in class.
Last time I mentioned that I had a couple things I wanted to do before calling my painting finished so here they are. First, I wanted to bring some of the background leaves down behind the table so it would look more natural. As you can see the previous image from last week the leaves look like they are avoiding the table in a nice little semi-circle around the corner of the table, on the left, a few extra leaves and problem solved.
