Pastel Fall 2015 Class: Learning by Observing

I had finished my project the previous class so I brought in something I wanted to do for myself. I found a painting I did in my plein air class and the reference photo I took down in San Pedro by the boats and working on a charcoal gray sanded paper I used both references to work on my painting.

Reference photo

Plein air oil 

I liked the looseness of the plein air painting but I needed the photo to see detail where the painting was unclear. I also used the painting for my color reference because a photo can be very monotone. Cameras do have their limitations so an artist needs to take special care to note colors and atmosphere when all you are taking are photos. If you can sit down and do a color sketch or a plein air painting that is better when you get back into the studio to paint.

Watching someone else work is as important as painting itself. You see how someone works at the speed they like to work at which is usually a lot faster than working on a class project. You see how they handle different aspect of a painting, the colors they choose, how they attack a complicated element such as the cluttered dock behind the boats or the distant palm trees in my painting. You see the flow of the artist and how it might help you in your painting so never pass up the opportunity to just watch someone paint.

I also want to stress you need to practice doing just studies of single elements. I know we all want to have a finished masterpiece, but if you want to be a better painter you need to learn to focus on the elements of a painting. There are artists that research a future painting by gathering photos and doing sketches and thumbnails long before they ever start on their masterpiece. With all that preparation it usually does turn out to be a masterpiece. Give this a try for a few months – yes, a few months because it won’t happen overnight – doing some sketches and thumbnails, taking or finding images so you know your subject. The drawing I’ve done of wood took me 10 minutes tops but it tells me so much so when I get to wood in a painting I’m doing, I understand what I need to do. Try it you might like it, especially the results and it won’t hurt.

You will continue to work on your own projects, so keep painting and I will see you in class.

PASTEL CLASS FALL 2015 Project: Cool Refuge Week 4

The last class was spent on finishing up the project and straightening up things I didn’t like and putting in details so I could call it good.

One are the first things I did, was I needed to correct the flowers that I had put in the vines that overhang the chair. When I was doing the blog the last time I noticed that I had lined the flowers pup, made them all the same size, all the same shape and equal distance apart and it really didn't look good, so I took a stiff bristle brush to just removed flowers, I also reshape my vines a little bit and worked my way across. I was working on sanded paper so this is an easy method to remove unwanted chalk, it will also work on regular pastel paper and you might also need to use an eraser.

When I was done reshaping the vines and removing some flowers I needed to go back in and do a little repair on my wall, so I took the dark ochre color for my wall, added a little bit of the medium lavender color and blended them together. It doesn't need to be perfect because it's an old beat up wall, I just needed it to look similar.

I put the flowers back in being mindful of shape size direction and to be sure not to line them up. Using a cool light color - it was a lavender blue color that I used - for the flowers.

Now on to the detail work: I wanted to put in some places where it looked like the stucco had broken off the wall. I used a warm sienna color on the sunlit wall and a darker, cooler sienna color for the shadowed wall, I also found a light tan color to use as the mortar between the bricks, then I just suggested parts of bricks showing in the holes in the wall.

To create a three-dimensional look to the cracks in the bricks I took a dark indigo blue and I lightly lined around the edge of the stucco. The thinner the line is that you put in the closer the stucco will look to the bricks, the wider the line is you put in the further away the stucco looks from the wall, use this optical illusion to your best advantage. I also use that dark color to come off of the patches to make it look like cracks in the stucco. Try not to get too carried away with this because it can feel like a good thing and then become too much, it is an easy trap to fall into.

I wanted to suggest old rusted nails in parts of the chair and how I accomplish that was I took the burnt sienna color and a little bit of orange and put it where I wanted the nail heads, put it down in a little streak, then took my finger and made it smudged it down, this softens the edges and blends the colors together, then I took my dark indigo blue and suggested some nail heads in where I put the rust streaks.

The flagstones seem to be the bane of almost everyone in class and they really aren't that hard. Remember they are not the focus of the painting you really only need to suggest them, what I did was I took a dark brown and my dark indigo color and what I was painting was the front edges of some of the flagstones, mostly those around the chair, that's really all you're going to see. When you're looking at stones from an angle, you only see the front edge and as you go further back into the background you will see less and less as they visually blend into each other, you might see just a little bit of the top edge of a few but just let it fade into the background.

Also be mindful of their shape: They will be longer across than they are wide because you are looking at them at an angle. This is called “foreshortening” and you can see this if you take a round lid, look at it straight on then tip the back away from you, it will appear to become an oval. This is an optical illusion but you need to understand the principals of this to create believable flat surfaces.

After I've got some of the front of the flagstones in the shaded area, I took a light blue violet and just suggested the tops of some of the flagstones, this is the reflected highlight in the shadow areas and it gives just enough detail to suggests the stones, that is all you need.

I tend to work back and forth between light and dark, adding color and finishing up the detail at this point working around and through my painting because I want to keep it all at an even rate of finish, if I see something that needs some more work, I work on that and then go back to something else I don't want to get stuck detailing something out and then forgetting the rest of it.

  

Please look at your reference photo and anything else that will help you finish this painting. If you need to work on the wood, I have included some photos I took of an old picnic bench I have in the backyard, I know that I have suggested that you make your own reference files - be they cut out from magazines and newspapers or on your photos or from the computer - they are a critical resource when you are trying to paint in any media, they give your ideas, they help you with detail, so don't just count on me or someone else to create these files for you need to start one or many for yourself.

 

I do want you to notice that the grains of the wood change direction when there is an end to the wood. You can see it quite vividly in the photograph I posted this should help you to see how to finish the wood on your chair.

I am basically finished with my painting so next week I will be doing demos where they are needed and if you are done with your painting then you will need to find something to work on in class I will help you where I can and give demos as needed so keep painting and I will see you in class.

Pastel Fall 2015 Project: Cool Refuge Week 3

I worked a bit more in the background on the sunny wall of this project. One of the things I noticed that I didn't like too much was it my door was to red, so to tone it down I found a green and added just a little bit of the green and blended it together with the red. This is a good thing to know whenever a color is too much and you need to tone it down, you find its complement or form of its complement and add it to the color. This works in all media so this is one of those bits of information that you can put under “general art knowledge” if you decide to take up other ways to paint.

I also added some vines up the side of the window. I worked a little bit on the shadows and I added some warmer brighter colors to the planter box and the window frame.

You will need to have your reference photo in front of you when you are doing the detail on this chair because you will need to see where the values change and also where the colors change so that photograph is very important.

One thing I did before I got too far along on my chair was I went back to the mold behind it and I darkened it. I took my dark blue green and added some indigo and a dark brown because I want that area between the slats to be darker then the slats. If you look at the reference photo you will see that this is the case with the actual chair.

If you have pastel pencils they may work better for you for this next step then your sticks because they will have more edges and you'll have a bit more control, but if all you have are your sticks you may have to chip them or break them to get a sharper edge. Look at them and see if you have something that has a little bit sharper edge on that stick of chalk.

Looking at the reference photo you will see that in the back part of the chair there is a wide variety value and color so to what is already there from last week - which is dark blue gray - I found darker browns, darker blues, darker greys and added them to create value and texture. There's even some dark green in there, I also found a light brown or orange color that will represent what's left of the paint on the chair, save this one out so that you can find it again.

I referred to my reference photo quite often, I was looking for value – dark, light - I was also looking for color changes so that I could add those colors to my chair. The front of the chair there are blues and light violet colors as well as soft browns put those on and then lightly blended them together. You didn't want them to become a homogeneous color you just want them to be more of a mottled background for the detail. I went over it again with sharper edges and leaving the color as is to create that feeling of old wood texture.

When wood gets old where it has edges that are along the grain, there will be deep splits. Keep this in mind as you are putting in your detail. There will be more places where you can add the darker grooves around the edges of the wood, like at the end armrest, and at the end of the front part of the chair. I will do a demo on wood next week to go over specifics if you have trouble seeing this in the reference  photo, though I do suggest you look at old wood and study it to see all it intricacies.

I also based in the vines that run across the top of the painting, you do not have to do this if you don't want to, but I like the fact that it stops the viewers eye from wandering up the wall and out of the page so it's an eye stopper, even a little bit of it will help your painting.

I started the underpainting for the vines with the darkest green I had and added to it some of my dark indigo blue. Remember this is in shadows so it is going to be a very cool color. Then I slightly blended the two colors together and I found to lighter turquoise blue to suggest the leaves. I just scribbled them on, I did not try to draw individual leaves, I also tried to make the vines have an irregular shape as they came down the wall.

Using my light violet color I added in shapes to suggest flowers on the vines remember it's in shadow so you won't have any bright white colors and white will look blue or lavender in the shadows. To suggest some highlights on the flowers I found a lighter blue and just suggested some lighter edges to the flowers, there is no distinct light coming into this part of the painting so it isn't important other than to suggest some detail on the flowers.

This is where I ended for the day, there is still some work to be done on the paving stones and some of the vines and also the missing chunks of wall but we should be able to finish this up next week so keep painting and I will see you in class.

PASTEL CLASS FALL 2015 Project: Cool Refuge

In our last class we got most everything under painted except for the chair and the plants underneath the chair so if I started with the plants under the chair getting them under painted.

Have your reference photo in front of you so you can see what I'm talking about. If you look at the plants as they go under the chair they become cooler in color because they are not only in a shady area but there is also in a cast shadow from the chair creating a darker color shadow on the plant. To achieve this color I found a dark, cool green and basically scribbled the color in under the chair filling in where the plant will go. You want that erratic scribbled look to your chalk strokes so that it looks like a jumble of leaves under the chair, it's not a wall it’s a plant, you don't paint it in flat or vertical you want to create texture and you do that by scribbling in the color. As the plant comes out from under chair switch to a warmer but still darker green and create the underpainting for your plant. This plant is growing out of cracks in the walkway so suggest that your plant is also doing this with an irregular shape at the bottom. I will start adding a bit of detail later but leave this for now.

I also added plants into the pot in the back and the flower box using light green some medium green nothing really dark at least not yet and just suggested some plants. I didn't erase any of the color that I had already put for the window I just blended in the color that was there with the new color of greens.

For the curtains I took a darker blue and I just drew in the gap between the curtains leaving what was there as the curtain color adding a little bit of detail to the curtains with a lighter blue, nothing fancy. For the shadows from the planter box and the pot I just used a soft purple color it was almost grey.

Starting the highlight of the stones of the walkway, I started back by the door. They are a light yellow but not quite as light as the wall. I made little marks that were close together and jumbled up to suggest highlights on the tops of the stones in front of the door and down the front of the building. There is a shadow that is being cast by the shadowed wall down that walkway so as I got into that shadowed area I switched from yellow to a light orange, from the light orange, to red orange and from the red orange into burnt sienna and blues and from the burnt sienna and blues into blues and grays and most of my darker cooler colors this is still part of the underpainting but it is now starting to suggest the texture of a cobblestone walkway I will do more later as I am finishing up my painting. I did fill in underneath my chair after I had the chair based in I used the dark colors to help create the edges of the plant and also my chair.

Looking at the referencephoto I wanted to see on the chair where the dark and the lights were also I was looking to see if and where there were color changes in the wood. If you look at the photo you will see that the back of the chair is a darker, color gray color while the front of the chair and the two legs are lighter and warmer, they have more brown than them, this is how you need to paint your chair so that it doesn't look flat when you finish. Starting in the back part of the chair I took a medium dark grey and colored in the slats on the back of the chair, I also took a light lavender blue and lightly went over all of the slats as well and gently blended them together with my fingers. The seat of the chair and the front of the chair I used a soft, warm grey and a light grey blended those lightly together. The legs that come down from the arms were a very warm, almost, grey color my chalk said it was burnt sienna but it was a very light burnt sienna. I also used a little bit darker version of that color in shadowed areas along with that lavender blue color lightly blending them together.

The arms of the chair have some very dark wood. The top of the closer arm is very dark so I used a darker brown for that, I also used the darker brown for the shadow under the opposite arm and the shadow on the leg right below it near the ground and also for the leg at the back of the chair where it touches the ground on the close side.

Once I had the chair based in I wanted to work a little bit on those plants if you have a deep turquoise green color that is perfect for the shadow color of the plants underneath it needs to be just a little bit lighter than what you already have there. Again you are just going to make a bunch of random marks vaguely in the shape of leaves. Look at the photograph, mostly what you see is just a mass of color you if you look close you will see detail but really all you see is a jumble of green, that is what you need to try and recreate under your chair rather than painting each individual leaf it will look way too busy.

When you get finished putting in the shadowed leaves under the chair switch to a lighter medium green for the leaves that are outside of the chair, none of these leaves will get very bright because all of it is in the shadow so don't pick up a light green chalk, you want a medium light color and if it is slightly on the blue side the better. Do the same thing with this lighter color to create a jumble of shapes to create the impression of leaves. I also took my dark indigo blue color and added some shadows back into and underneath some of the plant to create more texture. I will be finishing this later.

This is where I left off so try to get your painting as close to this as you can and we will continue with our chair next time keep painting and I will see you in class.

PASTEL 2015 FALL CLASS Project: Cool Refuge

I hope everybody was able to get their project transferred to their pastel paper. I want to remind you that I am working on sanded paper that I made myself, I wanted to color my paper but it is not necessary for you to be working on a colored background or a sanded paper, it is just one of those “artist’s preferences”, it is not a requirement.

Starting with the wall in the back I used a lemon yellow and a very light yellow for that back wall starting with the darker yellow first. My strokes were going in every direction, this is an old stucco wall so I don't want nice neat strokes, I want it to look messy because that creates texture I want, and here's where my colored paper comes in, because any places that I miss it will show through and have an overall warm tone. If you are working on white paper that white becomes highlights if you are working on gray paper the grey becomes shadows so it's not really that important it's just preference.

First I covered the area with the more colorful of the two yellows and then I took the lighter yellow and went over it loosely again. In theory there should be both colors visible but when you stand back they blend together visually to create the sun lit color of the wall. If you don't have a light yellow and you only have a medium to a medium light yellow for the first color you can use white to lighten it but be sure that you are leaving texture and chalk marks so that it looks like old stucco.

The wall behind the chair is probably the same color as the sunlit wall but because it is in shadow it is a cooler color so you will need to find a cooler more ochre yellow for this wall but not too dark you can blend colors to get this if you don't have an ochre color, use a darker yellow with a touch of Brown in it and put it on the wall. Negative paint around the chair it doesn't hurt the chair to go over it but painting around the chair you'll know where your lines are for the chair.

Once you have the first color down the other color or the blended ochre color, you want to find a light purple. You don't want it to light but you don't want it too dark either, somewhere in the middle value and then lightly go over that whole wall with this purple once you have done that then you can blend in.

I like old dirty nasty ugly things because they're very interesting to paint and one of the things I find interesting about this photograph is the mold growing on the wall behind the chair you don't have to put it in but if you do, you want to find dark, ugly green and to that you can add some purple and some orange and some blue and just kind of muck it all together. Remember to make it an irregular shape because it's something that's growing naturally, it won't have a nice even pattern and just have fun with it. This adds character to your painting.

On the sunlit wall where the door is you can use that same medium purple that you were using on the shadowed wall in the recess where the door is and also where the window is. Use the chalk itself to blend the colors this leaves bits and pieces of the colors that are being mixed and it gives a better pastel look to your painting. The red door was two different dark reds: a darker one and a richer, lighter one. The darker red goes at the top because it might be in shadow, the lighter one starts about a third of the way from the top of the door. If you only have one red use what you have and then use blue or a darker purple up at the top to make the red appear to be in shadows.

I used a Siena color to base in the window frames and the planter box underneath it. I used

a blue grey for the window panes I will be doing more this is just the underpainting for the window. I did a demo for the little pot that sits by the door, I used a dark brown, a sienna color and orange starting with the dark side, I did about a third of that in the dark, switched to the Sienna color mixing into part of that dark and towards the sunny side and I picked up the orange and blended into the Sienna color then to the outside edge.  You can take a little bit of yellow or white to create a highlight on the pot. I did a similar thing with plants in that pot but I use greens instead, so it was a dark blue green, a medium green, and a light green. For the flowers on the plant are used a bright orange red for the sunny side, a medium red for the transition into the shadows, and then the dark red I used on the doors for the flowers that are on the shadowed side.

I started to do the walkway back near the door where the sun is shining using a golden ochre color it should be a nice bright, warm, light orange color and the strokes need to be parallel to the top and bottom but slightly rounded on the top to give the look of stones or flagstones that our walkway is made of. I came almost to the edge of my paper with this color and I was aware that there is a shadow being cast from the wall onto the walkway. That transition shadow is a bit warmer and lighter than the shadows around the chair for that shadow color I used a soft brown as well as some soft blues and purples. I went into parts of the light part of the transition and shadow colors for the walkway because I want a soft uneven edge where that shadow is falling over the rough texture of the walkway. See the example of how shadows follow the surface of what they are falling on.

In the darker areas around the chair, I was using dark browns, blues, purples throwing in some greens and blended them together. This is just the underpainting this is are going to be the shadow parts dark parts between the rocks or flagstones it will all have some nice texture once done you are done. You might want to leave the area where the plants are growing underneath the chair so that they don't get muddied up and that is where I left off for the day try to get as far as you can keep painting and I will see you in class.

Pastel Project: TJs Bouquet Week 3

This week I started the finishing process to my painting I put in background color I detailed out flowers and leaves added more shadows added more detail so that it is virtually finished at this point.

Pastel is a rather frustrating subject to teach because there aren't any absolutes when it comes to color we are all limited by the colors that we have in our boxes so my best suggestion is to try to simulate the colors as best you can. For instance, in my background I used 5 different colors to create the background I had 3 very similar colors but different in value - light to dark - and then I used a blue and a dark purple to finish it off. You may only have 2 colors that are similar and one dark color so you are going to have to improvise for a lighter version you may have to use white or light cream color blended into it, then in the darker colors you may have to mix a dark blue with a dark brown or purple and if all else fails mix in a bit of black to deepen the color.

It is best if you test this on a separate piece of paper and not on what you're working on, you will be very upset with yourself if it doesn’t work the first time. Also learn to blend colors together using the chalk itself: put down one color and then near the edge of that color take your next color and blended into the first color you may have to go back with your finger and blend but you will get some very nice blends using this chalk on chalk technique.

Have your reference photo in front of you before you start, this is your guide.

In my background I had 3 teal colors: a light, medium, and a darker plus my dark blue and dark purple. Starting near the flowers with the lighter color, I colored in areas around my flowers and if I went over the fern or something else, I didn't worry about it, I can always put it back in later. I switched to the next darker color and starting just inside the outside edge of the first color, I started laying down the second color blending with the chalk as I laid the color in. I repeated that process with all of my colors until I got to the very darkest purple then I took my finger and blended from the lightest to the darkest occasionally wiping my finger off so that I wasn't dragging the colors too far into the next color but softening the blend so that it looks almost seamless.

I did a similar thing on the table starting with a lighter color, I used a very light lavender color, followed by a darker lavender/blue color, followed by an indigo blue and then a purple doing the same thing as I did above and then blending them lightly together with my finger.

I went back in and finished up details in my flowers and, once the background was done, I could go in and add ferns or fix any I smudged. I used light colors where they were against the dark so they stood out. I added in darks where I thought I needed them for contrast, looking at my photograph to help me find where I needed to add some dark. I also detailed some of the insides of those little flowers by adding little touches of dark around the center where you can see into the flowers, if you look at the photograph you will see little bits of dark between the petals of flowers. I also used reds to detail out the edges of those flowers. Lastly, I took a very light yellow and in places around the flowers and the leaves were I wanted to have a glow I added touches of this very light yellow.

 

Basically my painting is finished I will look at it for the next few days and see if there's anything else I need to add to it or would like to change but I could stop right here without too much trouble. You are going to need to get to the point where you feel that you are done, to finish your painting. Until then, keep painting and I will see you in class.

Pastel Project: TJ’s BouquetWeek 2

We got pretty far along last week with our underpainting now we're going to start doing some of the detail on our flowers and leaves.

You are going to have to look at your own pastels to see which colors will be a close approximation to the colors you need, it is unfortunate fact of life that in pastel I can't be any more specific about color but you will learn how to find these colors or blend to them with practice.

Use a medium dark yellow, you don't want a bright light yellow but more towards the orange side, to start shaping and filling in the petals of your sunflowers. Use this color in most instances but have your photo in front of you so that you are using for reference in front of you. The photo will tell you all the information you need to know about what colors go where, you want to look for places on flowers that have bright light areas those areas you will use your light or lightest yellows because this is where the sun is shining through the petals and creating that glow.

Also at the same time I am looking to see where the shadows and curves are on the pedals, for those areas I was using a reddish orange and a darker red for the shadows. The reds are for the darkest part of the shadows it's not like our traditional shadows where we use blues and purples because that won't quite work when we're dealing with yellow. Try blending the dark color with a lighter color using the lighter color with little pressure.

On the roses I needed to start creating that look of all the folded petals as they are unfolding from the outside in. You don't want to use white to create the lighter reds this will only make pink so instead you can use a light red if you have it or orange and tiny touches of white or pink to create the lighter edges of the rose. Be sure you are looking quite often to your photograph, please notice that all of the flowers look in several directions some look up, some look to the side, some aren't even looking at us at all and you have to keep that in mind as you are painting. Think ovals not circles.

For the darker colors in the roses you can use a darker red and/or a very dark blue to create those deep dark shadows that you see inside the rose and in between the petals of the roses. Make sure the as you are painting these roses that your strokes follow the natural growth of the petals, most of your strokes should go from the outside then you curve down towards the bottom of the rose where they attach to the stem, even if it's only a short stroke it needs to follow the natural growth of the petal.

I also started adding in more dark green into the leaves and using that darker green to shape some of my flowers and flower petals right now we are kind of filling in where we may have missed with our underpainting be sure to blend lightly from time to time and try to get as much of this done as possible and we will work on it next week.

Keep painting and I will see you in class.

Summer Pastel 2015

Pastel Project: TJ’s Bouquet Week 1

To begin the last class I did a demo to show how easy it is to create your own sanded paper using “Golden’s Acrylic Ground for Pastel”. I had prepared a piece of light gray mat board by first painting the back side of it with white gesso to seal it also to help it lay flat when dry. You can use any acrylic medium or varnish to seal the surfaces of your paper or board gesso is nice because it also has a bit of “tooth” to add. If you use gesso to seal both sides of your board you might want to lightly sand the side you will be applying the acrylic ground to get a smoother surface. You can add color to the gesso as you seal the board to get a colored background or paint a color using watercolor or acrylic to get a toned paper or board which is what I did to the board I was working on, I had black gesso I used to seal and tone it first then applied the ground.

When I applied the ground, I had thinned the acrylic ground with equal mix of water and ground and mixed well then applied it to the surface of my board. You can use it straight out of the jar but if you dilute it first you can get the kind of texture you want to work on. Let it dry and if needed add another layer of ground.

You can use this process on almost any surface you want to do a pastel on though I do suggest that you use heavier paper like watercolor paper or Bristol Board, it can go on Masonite, wood panels, mat board, foam core, the choice is yours you just need to find what surface you want to work on and experiment with it.

To start the project I showed how to transfer a design on to my board by chalking the back of my design then tracing over the line once I’d placed it on my board. You can also draw directly on your board using a color such as a light blue or lavender or gray that will not interfere with the other colors you will be applying.

Once I had my design on I started filling in the basic shapes with color starting with the basket. I looked in my colors for a soft warm gray for the base color for my basket, I also looked to see if I had a darker version of it and a lighter one but if you don’t have other versions of colors find a warm white like a soft yellow or orange for the light color and use a lavender or blue with the base color for the darker color, then base in the basket starting in the middle with the warm gray and work to your left adding and blending in touches of the lavender or blue and to the right adding in the warm white color. Use the base color with the warm white for the handle of the basket. I did a bit of detail on the basket using a sienna color for the rusted paint and a very dark brown for the deeper rusted metal.

You should have your photo in front of you as you paint so you know where you are going and what you need to do next, I am constantly looking at my photo as I paint no matter what medium I am painting in my reference material is where I can see it.

The yellow flowers I based in with a medium yellow, not my lightest yellow. The centers of the sunflowers were a dark brown with a little sienna in the centers. My roses were 2 different reds one a bit brighter the other a bit darker and cooler like a dark crimson, the leaves had 4 different greens from a very light almost yellow (you can use yellow for the very lightest green if you need to) to a medium light green to a mid-value green to a dark green for shadowed leaves. I am just placing color at this point not doing detail not worrying about anything other than the overall design. If I need to make changes at this point I can no problem or I can start getting more detailed if I don’t see anything I need to change. I am far from finished at this point so don’t panic if you are still figuring it out.

Last but not least, I wanted to separate the basket from the dark background because when

I added the dark brown to my basket it was hard to see. If you look at the photo you will see that there is a bit of light shining on the counter, it is not a bright light but it does help separate the sides of the basket from the dark background please note the shape of the light there are angles to it because the basket is blocking some of the light casting a shadow on the counter. I used a soft lavender blue for this light area and I made go back later and add more “light” but this will do for now.

Try to get you painting as close to this as possible and I will see you all in our next class.

Pastel Garden Fantasy Update

Last week I considered my pastel finished but after I looked at it for a while I realized I had some areas I wanted to rework I didn't like the right side of my stream it looked a little too unfinished so I added in some plants coming in of the page I worked a little bit on the water I went back in an added some lighter areas around my trees. I added some ground cover in between more of my rocks so did it look a little more natural and just touched up a few areas that I didn't think either had enough color or were not bright enough. It is okay to go back in re-work the painting if you not satisfied with it, just be sure to have a plan when you do because if you go in trying to find something that doesn't need to be fixed you're only going to ruin it. However, I saw areas I thought we're lacking and I had to re-work those parts of my painting rather than destroy what I already was satisfied with.

Another thing I did is I have color that was close to the color of my paper and I went in around the edges of my painting with that color and just blended colors of the things that were there with this paper color and then vignette it out into the color of the paper to give it a more ethereal look and that was it this time I think it really is done. So have something new to paint in class and I will help you get started keep painting and I will see you next time.

Pastel Garden Fantasy Week 3

I have sprayed my painting at least twice with workable fixative to this point. I have everything

under painted so now I'm going to start the finishing process. What that means is that I am going to come in and make things darker for the shadows more intense in color more defined I want this to pop.

You must have the photos of the pagoda and the stream from the Botanic Gardens so that you can see where you are going I use these reference photos just as a matter of course I would not know where to go if I didn't have them where I could see them, they don't help you if they're at home or in your bag. You need to see where the shadows are; you need to see the changes in color; you need to see the changes in shapes. This is why we have reference photos.

Most of the time at this point in my painting I try to blend with the chalks and not my fingers or a

stump because this leaves chalk marks that gives pastels their unique look. However, if I need to I will break out my stump or use my finger to blend I also have what's called color shaper and that works really well getting into smaller areas for blending.

When I am working in shadow areas I want to make sure that I am using the darkest colors. I have I have an indigo color I also have some very dark browns and greens and I will often use the Indigo color with these other dark colors to create darker versions of the other colors. This is so that I avoid using black unless I have absolutely no choice. Black will dull your colors and make shadows look rather harsh so try to use the dark versions of the color and add dark blue instead of black.

I do occasionally use a purple in my dark colors but I find that in pastel purples tend to be more of a reddish purple and I don't like the results I get. Its probably just the colors I have but I don't like the way they mix with my other colors so I prefer to use my dark indigo blue.

I will probably finish my painting in the next class so try to get your painting as far along as you can if you have questions let me know but keep painting and I will see you in class.

Spring 2015 Pastel Week 3

Pastel Garden Fantasy week 2

I wanted to be sure that I had my underpainting well established in my pastel before spraying. I added more colors into the side areas that suggests trees. In the red tree I added some orange as highlight to suggest the tops of branches and I added the suggestion of another green tree in front of it. I made sure I had all of my pine tree and the background behind it established and then I started in with some lighter colors to start the highlighting process. Once I had all of that done then I sprayed my painting.

When the spray had dried I started working on the pagoda. I used warm shades of gray, some lavender and a soft ochre color. The pagoda and the rock it sits on are very warm in tone so I wanted to be sure that the colors I used were very warm yet on the grey side.

In the stream I used some of my cooler (blue) greens to under paint the water. I will go back and add other blues and greens later, this was just the under painting.

I also found color in my pastels that was similar to the color of my paper and in some areas along the outside edges I blended this into those colors that were there and smeared them together so they fade out into the margins better.

I also under painted the pine tree's trunk and branches with a darker warm grey it wasn't a dark grey more like a medium dark grey so that I can come back in with darker colors to suggest bark and texture on the tree. I have not sprayed my painting again I still need to do some work before I will spray my painting again and this is where I left off.

Try to get your paintings to this point in class so we can continue. Be sure to have your reference photos where you can see them and refer to them often. Keep painting and I will see you in class.

Spring 2015 Pastel Class Week 1

Pastel: Garden Fantasy Week 1

I am working on a turquoise paper it's more like construction paper it has a very undefined grain to it which I like and it is slightly bigger then my sketch because I want to have room around it so that I can fade things out into nothingness.

The first thing I did was to transfer my drawing onto my paper, I did that by lightly going over the lines of my drawing on the back side of the print out I had then I taped it to my paper aligning it to where I wanted it. I have more blank space at the bottom than I have at the top and then I taped it down with blue masking tape and went over the lines of the drawing with the end of a brush to transfer the drawing. After tracing the design on the paper I did have to go over those lines with a pastel pencil to reinforce my lines so I could see what I had on my paper.

Starting in the back and looking at my reference photos, I took a light yellow because I want a nice bright area in the back and I formed an a sunlit area as I moved away from the sunlit area I added touches of orange and red negative painted around most of the areas of the trees and the tree branches and rocks so that my colors would stay dark and clean against the other colors.

Once I had the background in, I started filling in the rest of my painting. I used to dark green underpainting for my pine trees painting around the pagoda in front, I added some deep red in the background - I don't know what it will be but I like the color -  I also use some lighter greens for some of the trees and then for some of the low ground cover I use blue greens. Look at the reference photo and you will see that many of the ground cover plants have a bluish tint to them. For my rocks I used light and dark grays I also have an indigo color that I use for blending and for shadows.

I painted the water with purple and blue and I made sure that as I made strokes on my paper when I was in a pool area to make them look flat my strokes were very horizontal to the top and bottom of the paper, and when I was painting in the fall area, I curved my strokes in the direction the water is falling

This is just under painting and I did not get all of it finished in class I will do that next time, I want to have all of it under painted first and then I will spray for my next layers. Do as much as you can and get your painting to this point. One of the things I haven't mentioned is that I have space all around the edges of my painting so that I have what is called a vignette where I will fade the colors or to blend into the color of the paper. Keep painting and I will see you in class.